Paris Fashion Week
Fall 2012 Favourites
Paris is the last stop on our Fall 2012 Fashion Week tour. These are the some of my favourite collections so far. Click to enlarge pictures.
Giambattista Valli established a unique compatibility between heavier knits and flimsy chiffon for Fall 2012. What began in the ashes of black and grey, lit up into a fiery stream of burnt orange and flame red. Chunky sweaters were paired with pencil skirts, drop-waist dresses were hemmed with fur, pleating was sheer and patterns aplenty. The show culminated with wide-belted gowns in striking superimposed geometric prints.
Dries van Noten
Haider Akermann is an architect of innovative new cuts and awe-inspiring sculptural designs. His Fall collection is tinted with shades of an Autumn day; in roasted chestnut, a heap of fallen leaves in every shade of orange, russet woods & sage green. Structured peplum jackets were sternly belted, silk blouses peeked under draped wool, high-waisted pants were framed by moulded leather coats & dresses were ingeniously gathered to yield a folded capelet shape.
Balmain's winter offering was laid from an ornate Fabergé egg, richly embellished with crystals and glistening pearls. Sumptuous velvets and brocade traced Baroque influences, while slick leather trousers and oversized quilted vests signaled modern rock-chick. Navy blue and forest green coloured in a black, white and metallic palette. Shiny gold belts were recurrent throughout the collection, shaping the boxy silhouettes. Casual sweaters and slim-fit pants grounded the otherwise lavish looks.
Cacharel's Fall collection took flight from the 20's, with intrepid pilot Amelia Earhart at the helm. A serene blue sky of feminine coats and suits were dotted with clouds of white, red and yellow. Silhouettes were more relaxed with patterned palazzo pants, slouchy jumpsuits, polo-neck and belted dresses and cozy knits. The retro-aviatrix looks were accompanied by aviator caps, long leather gloves, cute coloured tights and red and yellow heels.
What attracted me most to Christian Dior's Fall collection was the dreamy shades of pastels, pink and grey. Skirts, narrow and 50's style flair were all nipped in the waist, paired with peplum jackets and tops with knotted-necklines. Fitted knit caps, ankle-strap pumps and long leather gloves accented each look. In the meridian of this hazy range, were a resplendent few evening gowns with diaphanous skirts and a standout neon pink prima ballerina dress.
Dries van Noten
Hats off to Dries van Noten for taking the mundanity out of the conventional suit and breathing new, exotic life into it. His inventive use of prints are tailored to perfection with a slight Oriental influence this Fall. A bricolage of prints were printed onto silk dresses, longer-length tunics and wool trench coats. Narrow trousers were worn underneath pleated skirts. Brightly hued fur capes added texture to the masculine silhouettes. This is a collection we will see tumble down from the catwalk onto the stylish sidewalks of the everyday girl.
Lanvin's Fall presentation opened with a rainbow of cocktail dresses, flounced on the waist or frilled on the collar. The mood turned darker, with sexy draped and frocks and black and grey bejewelled mini's. Curve-enhancing dresses were punctuated with lavish necklaces, colourful fur stoles, belts and opera gloves (which seem to be a favourite this fashion week). Edgy elegance to appease the glamour-seeking girl with rockstar chic.
Nina Ricci dresses up Parisian romance with a sense of nostalgia for Fall 2012. Designer Peter Copping proposes the idea of assembling an outfit from a treasure chest of clothes you would find in your grandmother's attic. A pretty pastel pink and berry-hued collection of silky slip dresses were blanketed by thick tweed coats. Lingerie-inspired cut-out frocks seduced with their innate feminine appeal, while deconstructed tulle dresses seemed to come undone. Fragments of lace, chiffon and tweed were pieced together, creating an arbitrary patchworked design. Again we see elbow-length gloves, only this time trimmed with fur. Sweetly seductive.
Part Two to Follow.