Fall 2012 Favourites
This is the last segment in my coverage of Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2012. On a whole, cut-outs, texture and tapestry ruled the Italian runway. Will Paris follow suite? Please click on the pictures for a larger view.
Antonio Marras told a folkloric tale at his Fall 2012 showing. It was a vintage scrapbook of fabrics pieced together, not so randomly as it appeared, but rather with conscious intent. There was pattern clashing, lace paneled pencil skirts, fur trimmed coats and a patchwork of floral tapestries. A medley of different textures in interesting 40's style silhouettes spoke of the designer's eclectic, yet refined discernment.
The Emilio Pucci woman is intrepid this fall, daring to wear sheer slashed dresses with cut-outs in all the right places, never showing too much, but just enough. Prints were kept to a minimum, with more focus on shape-shifting from masculine tuxedo jackets and narrow trousers, to figure-hugging silk and chiffon gowns.
Dolce & Gabbana
I haven't seen a Dolce & Gabbana collection that I didn't like. This season was no different, as the design duo enthralled with a baroque-spun romantic affair. Opulent gold embroidery garnished black dresses, coats and skirts. The looks conveyed an innocent sensuality; models in demure dresses made of sheer chiffon, ruffles and unlined lace, completely blasé about the bustiers and bloomers showing through. Colour appeared in the form of charming floral and cherub prints. The styling perfectly reinstated the feminine theme, with bejewelled headbands, lace socks, wooden heels, velvet and floral bags and gilded waistbands.
A freshly squeezed chalice of punchy colour was an appetite pleaser at Giorgio Armani's Fall 2012 presentation. Tangy citrus orange and saturated fuchsia pink coalesce to create colour-blocked looks with panache. Armani also sent a few menswear-inspired suits down the runway, polishing them off with wide-brimmed fedoras and two-tone oxfords. Chicly tailored jackets, trousers and shift dresses make for a sophisticated season ahead.
Precious gem tones and rich tapestry flavoured the Fall 2012 showing of design team Aquilano e Rimondi. Jacquard, silks and velvet sustained the grandiose offering. Although it's roots lay in baroque Renaissance paintings from Italy, it still retained a sense of modernity with arced and exaggerated tailoring. Collars were raised, but hemlines kept short, double-breasted coats skimmed over the knee, while pants were slightly cropped. Artfully crafted and intriguing.
Byblos refreshed our fashion palettes with a much lighter and casual collection for the upcoming winter. Sporty elements were elegantly enhanced to serve a wider field of dressed-up weekend wear and relaxed cocktail looks. Lumo leggings were so skintight, it appeared to be painted onto the models. The delicate selection of neutral toned dresses were nipped in the waist with skinny belts. Accessible and unpretentious, this is one for the masses.
My first thoughts of Roberto Cavalli's Fall 2012 show was 'excessive'. It was a visual sensory experience unlike any other. Hot pink, aqua and green sequined baby doll frocks with bubble skirts and fur hems. Every endangered species was represented in the different animal prints, which were layered over each other in varying proportions, creating a multi-dimentional effect. Silhouettes were more floaty than fitted. If separated, it's possible these looks could somehow transcend into the realms of normality.
I appreciated Marni's fall 2012 collection for it's simple spin on boldness and being completely unique compared to all the other shows. Strong, vivid lines and geometric shapes gave rise to graphic looks that rouse interest. Designer Consuelo Castiglioni didn't wear out the colour-block trend, but instead revamped it by stealthily layering textures. Fur vests, jackets and capes were belted, adding some contours to the otherwise boxy silhouettes. Most striking: White tights with crossed ankle strap heels, fur stoles and blunt 60's style bangs.
Amidst all the exuberant furs, overpowering prints and sequins, we have the gratifying calm of Jil Sander. Soothing pastel shades drifted across the runway in rose petal pink, lavender blush, gentle fawn, vanilla and ice grey, which was later washed away by bright red and navy. Designs were seamless and modern, minimalistic but arresting. Coats were oversized with a rounded appearance and absence of any type of closure. Silky slip dresses resembling negligees were pretty and effortlessly ladylike. Cocktail gowns were corseted, with cut-outs, trimmed just above the ankle. Beautiful in both proportions and simplicity.
For part one of Milan Fashion Week, hop over here. Who has been your favourite?