This is the second chapter of my favourite runway picks of Milan Fashion Week. Some of the major trends that came out of Italy this year are: the bare midriff, pleated skirts, crocheting, bold floral prints, sheer fabrics, flowing floor-length gowns and the pencil skirt.
Dolce and Gabbana
Only Dolce & Gabbana can make vegetable prints look seriously sexy. Spicy chillies, red onions, yellow bell peppers, plum tomatoes and purple aubergines were printed onto the 50's style silhouettes. The idyllic Italian summer collection advanced into coquettish cocktail wear, with sheer full-skirted dresses delicately cast over frilly bustier tops. Knee-length frocks were garnished with colourful gems and floral motifs. To further enforce the food-inspired theme, models wore farfalle and macaroni shaped earrings, and strings of pasta around their necks. The colourful straw baskets are suited for an outing to the local fruit & veg market.
Ermanno Scervino's Spring 2012 collection was misted with a delicate spray of romance. Shades of pistachio, sea sand, blizzard blue and whipped cream gently washed across the stage. Satin negligées edged with lace stood-in as daywear. Courtly coats were coupled with pencil skirts. Tiered ruffles unfolded onto gossamer skirts. A beautifully feminine and refined collection for a modern day princess, royal or not.
Antonio Marras was inspired by French writer Jean Genet's 1947 play, The Maids, when putting together his Spring range. His colours of choice: a splash of cerise, violet, intense teals and greens, all underset by pale ivory and jet black. But it was the luminous yellow pointed heels that solicited most of my attention. Colour blocking collided with silky floral prints. Simple t-shirts were worn with generously cut skirts. There was also a good measure of leather and drapery. A striking collection that will look as good off the catwalk as on.
Giorgio Armani's Spring collection swims in a deep blue sea of inspiration. He takes us on an underwater excursion with sophisticated designs soaked in pearlescent satin. Lacquered indigo cigarette pants were cropped with slits up to the knee. There are fitted silk jackets for the day, and shimmering beaded cardigans for night. Strapless evening gowns are molded to resemble seashells. Armani always interests me with his customary use of layering, in this case, fluid blue fabrics tier down to create a waterfall effect. This is an aquatic adventure that ripples with elegance and maturity.
Roberto Cavalli's Spring showcase oozes with gilded glamour and exuberance. It is a head turning collection that is entrenched in excessiveness. An overindulgence of floral and animal prints and an abundance of beads. There was a surplus of lustrous gold jackets, two-toned pleated skirts, impeccably fit trousers and multi-strap drop-waisted dresses. Black and white tuxedo jackets were cleverly used to modulate the ornate looks. I love the sheer tulle embellished gowns. Simply breathtaking.
Salvatore Ferregamo's Spring range is sustained by charismatic evening gowns in opulent colours. Saturated shades of turquoise, magenta, cherry red and tangerine covered spray-tanned models with side swept waves. Exotic tropical prints furnished handkerchief dresses, tulip-wrapped skirts, jumpsuits and loosely fit pants. Thigh high slits and key-hole halter necks were incorporated into the silk scarf gowns. I like designer Massimiliano Giornetti's refreshing take on colour blocking. A trip to the tropics has never been this glamorous.